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Plaça de la Virreina | Church, Tapas & Calçotada in Gràcia

Discover Plaça de la Virreina in Gràcia. Romanesque church, terrace bars, and calçotada festival. A peaceful square with local charm and seasonal events

by: Barcelona Travel Hacks Views: 3.7k

About Plaça de la Virreina & Sant Joan Baptista Church – Gràcia’s Hidden Gem

Plaça de la Virreina is one of the most charming Barcelona plazas, nestled in the heart of the Gràcia neighborhood. Framed by tall trees and low-rise modernist buildings, the square is anchored by the beautiful Sant Joan Baptista Church, a Romanesque-style parish dating from 1884. It’s a peaceful yet lively spot, ideal for relaxing at one of the many terrace bars and restaurants that line its edges.

Located in the semi-pedestrianised barri de Gràcia, the square is bordered by quiet streets with minimal traffic, making it a favorite for locals and visitors alike. Designed in 1878 by architect Josep Artigas, Plaça de la Virreina features a unique tribute to gymnast Joaquín Blume, born in the neighborhood, with a commemorative plaque on the left side of the square.

The square’s name traces back to the Palau de la Virreina on La Rambla, built by Manuel Amat, Viceroy of Peru, for his young widow María Francesca de Fivaller i de Bruà. “Virreina” is the feminine form of “Viceroy,” and the name lives on in both the palace and this beloved square.

Another local curiosity is the Fountain of Ruth, featuring a bronze sculpture by Josep M. Camps Arnau, dedicated in 1949. For years, an anonymous admirer has placed fresh flowers in the statue’s arms each morning—removed only when they begin to wilt. The identity of this floral guardian remains a mystery.

Visiting Plaça de la Virreina

Plaça Virreina is an open public square and a popular spot for drinks and tapas in Gràcia. Whether you’re meeting friends after work or enjoying a quiet afternoon, the terrace restaurants offer a relaxed atmosphere with views of the church and surrounding architecture.

Plaça Virreina Calçotada

Each winter, typically in late February or early March, the square hosts a festive calçotada in Gràcia. Long communal tables are set up for this traditional Catalan feast featuring calçots—a seasonal vegetable resembling a cross between a leek and an onion. Grilled over open flames, calçots are served wrapped in newspaper with a smoky red dipping sauce. Diners peel off the charred outer layers, dip the tender root, and eat it whole. Bibs and gloves are provided for this delightfully messy experience.

To learn more about the origins and traditions of this seasonal event, visit the Valls Calçotada Festival page, which explores the heart of calçot culture in Catalonia.

Accessibility & What to Bring to Plaça de la Virreina

Plaça de la Virreina is a fully open public space with 24/7 access, except during special events like the calçotada. The square is flat and pedestrian-friendly, making it suitable for visitors with reduced mobility.

Bicycle anchorage points are available within the square, and comfortable walking shoes are recommended if you plan to explore more of the Gràcia district.

Plaça de la Virreina Summary of Prices

Train/Bus Fare Entry Ticket Additional Information Train/Bus Fare Entry Ticket Additional Information Adult Zone 1 T-casual FREE Child € 1.25 FREE Notes Great place to eat outside.

Getting to Plaça de la Virreina

Address: Plaça de la Virreina, Barcelona, 08012

Nearest Metro Stops: FontanaJoanic (L4 – Yellow Line). Both stations are within walking distance of the square.

Use a T-Casual for single journeys or the Hola Barcelona Travel Card for unlimited travel across metro, bus, and tram networks—ideal for exploring the Gràcia neighborhood of Barcelona.

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