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Saint‑Martin du Canigou Abbey Hike – Vernet‑les‑Bains, France

Discover the Romanesque Saint‑Martin du Canigou Abbey on a 13 km hike from Vernet‑les‑Bains, passing waterfalls, forest trails and stunning Canigou mountain scenery

by: Barcelona Travel Hacks Views: 1.6k

About Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey Hike

Approaching the Abbey of Saint‑Martin du Canigou feels like stepping into a story whispered through a thousand years of mountain wind. The path climbs steadily above the Cady river valley, weaving through oak and beech forest until the trees part and the abbey appears — a Romanesque stronghold perched on a rocky ridge at 1,094 metres, suspended between the sky and the jagged peaks of the Canigou massif. Its stone walls glow warm in the mountain light, and the silence of the valley below makes it easy to imagine the monks who once sought solitude and prayer in this dramatic landscape.

This 11th‑century Romanesque monastery is one of the region’s most striking examples of Norman architecture, recognised as a historical monument since 1889. Its position high above the valley gives it an almost mythical presence, blending spiritual heritage with the raw beauty of the Pyrenees.

The 13‑kilometre circular hike begins in Vernet‑les‑Bains and follows a quiet country lane toward the village of Casteil. From here, a paved pedestrian trail climbs toward the abbey via the small Saint Benoit chapel. The descent returns through a peaceful forested valley lined with waterfalls, red squirrels, nuthatches, Black Redstarts and a surprising variety of butterflies — a gentle, scenic contrast to the dramatic ascent.

If you want to experience the abbey without tackling the full hike, there are 4x4 tours departing from Vernet‑les‑Bains that take you up the mountain directly:

The abbey also offers spiritual retreats and guided tours, making it a rewarding destination whether you come for the history, the architecture, or the mountain solitude.

For a perfect weekend escape, pair this visit with the nearby Gorges de Carança hiking route. Staying overnight in Vernet‑les‑Bains works beautifully — the town has plenty of hotels, hostels and holiday apartments, plus restaurants and thermal baths to unwind after a day on the trails.

Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey History

The abbey was founded in 1009 AD by Guifred II, Count of Conflent and Cerdanya, and was home to Benedictine monks for more than eight centuries. Guifred II eventually joined the monastic community himself and died at the abbey in 1050 after fifteen years of service as a monk.

In 1428, the monastery suffered significant damage during the Catalan earthquake known as the terratrèmol de la candelera, named for its occurrence during Candlemas. The epicentre was recorded near Camprodon, on the edge of the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa. This quake was one of several seismic events that shook northern Catalonia between February 1427 and December 1428. Despite the location, these earthquakes are not believed to be linked to the dormant volcanic area of Catalonia, whose last eruption — the Santa Margarida crater — dates back roughly 11,500 years.

The abbey was secularised in 1782 under King Louis XVI, and the monks abandoned it between 1783 and 1785. During the French Revolution, particularly the 1793 to 1794 Reign of Terror, the monastery was closed and heavily looted. Cloister capitals, sculptures and furniture were removed and dispersed across the region.

A major restoration effort began in 1902 under the bishop of Elne and Perpignan, Jules‑Louis‑Marie de Carsalade du Pont, who spent three decades rebuilding the ruined complex. His work was continued in 1952 by Father de Chabannes. Since 1988, the Catholic Community of the Beatitudes has resided at the abbey, maintaining its spiritual life and welcoming visitors. Many of the marble cloister capitals looted during the Revolution were recovered during the restoration thanks to a meticulous search for original fragments.

The abbey features two superimposed churches built in the First Romanesque style. Early 20th‑century architect and Catalan president Josep Puig i Cadafalch coined the term “First Romanesque” to describe an architectural movement that developed across northern Italy, parts of France and the Iberian Peninsula during the 10th and 11th centuries. Also known as Lombard Romanesque, the style is characterised by:

This architectural tradition is attributed to groups of Lombard stonemasons working in Catalonia in the early 11th century. Abott Oliba of the Santa Maria de Ripoll Monastery was one of its most influential patrons.

The lower church, dedicated to Saint Mary, preserves its original apses and bays from 1009 AD, with the remainder built between 1010 and 1020. The upper church, dedicated to Saint Martin, was constructed during the same period and required reinforcing the columns of the lower church. The gatehouse, once taller, now rises no more than 19 metres after being damaged in the 1428 earthquake. Most of the surrounding convent buildings date from the early 20th‑century restoration.

Saint‑Martin du Canigou lies along the Routes of Santiago de Compostela, part of the Camiño de Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage network. It sits on the French route that crosses the Pyrenees into Spain at Roncesvalles, linking the abbey to one of Europe’s most important spiritual pathways.

Visiting Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey

The route begins in Vernet‑les‑Bains, where you can park near the Sant Sadurní de Vernet church. It’s worth taking a short wander through the town before joining the Chem. la Forêt et du Saint‑Vincent rural road, which soon becomes a forest path leading toward the Cascade du Saint Vincent waterfall.

After roughly 2.5 kilometres, the main trail forks to the right toward Casteil — but it’s well worth continuing straight for an additional 1.5 kilometres to visit both the Cascade du Saint Vincent and the Cascade des Anglais. This stretch crosses several charming wooden bridges over the Ribera de Sant Vicenç mountain stream. Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, backtrack to the fork and follow the path toward the village of Casteil.

As you enter Casteil and pass Camping Domaine St Martin, turn left onto the small road that skirts the village cemetery and descends toward the Auberge del Cadì and Sant Martí de Castell. From here, take the ascending Chem. de l'Abbaye, a pedestrianised 1.5‑kilometre climb that winds steadily up the mountainside. Along the way you’ll pass the Chapelle Saint Benoit, where a picnic bench and viewpoint offer sweeping views over Casteil and Vernet‑les‑Bains.

The first glimpse of the abbey is the distinctive Lombard tower rising above the ridge. As you approach, the path reveals the lawns and gardens in front of the monastery. Just before reaching the entrance, a set of steps on the right leads to another picnic area and, after a short 250‑metre walk, a viewpoint overlooking the valley. Returning to the abbey, the best panoramic view is found by following a small path that begins at the steps on the corner of the building — after about 100 metres, a short spur on the left opens to the most spectacular viewpoint of the entire route. The abbey interior can also be visited.

To begin the descent, take the steps behind the abbey that drop into the forest and the Cady river valley. This peaceful section crosses the river several times beneath a dense canopy of oaks, beeches and cork trees. When you reach a wooden bridge, look out for a right‑hand fork — a brief 100‑metre detour leads to another small waterfall before you return to the main path and continue down to the Route de Mariailles road.

Follow Route de Mariailles back toward Casteil, passing Les Saveurs du Cady restaurant — an excellent stop for a drink, snack or lunch. If it’s closed, continue 100 metres to La Mirabelle‑Casteil Country House and Restaurant or Au Fil Du Temps. From Casteil, follow the D116 country lane for 2 kilometres back to Vernet‑les‑Bains. Just before reaching the town, you’ll pass the Thermes de Vernet‑les‑Bains thermal baths. Returning to the parking area via Boulevard Lambert Violet, it’s worth climbing the stone steps to visit the Monument à l'Entente Cordiale before ending the route.

Hiking to Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey with a dog

This route is very manageable with a dog and doesn’t present any technical difficulties. Most of the trail follows forest paths, quiet rural lanes and shaded riverbanks, making it a pleasant outing for dogs that enjoy long walks and natural terrain. There are several opportunities for your dog to cool off in the streams along the way, especially on the descent through the Cady valley.

Because parts of the route pass through the village of Casteil and along short stretches of rural road, it’s sensible to keep your dog on a leash in these areas. The rest of the trail is wide and comfortable enough for dogs to roam beside you safely.

Around the abbey, the forest is dense with oaks, beeches and cork trees, with occasional pines. Encounters with Pine Processionary Caterpillars are unlikely here, but vigilance is still recommended in spring and summer when they are most active.

Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey Spiritual Retreat

The Catholic Community of the Beatitudes welcomes visitors who wish to spend time at the abbey in an atmosphere of silence, reflection and mountain solitude. Retreats typically last between two and six days (excluding Mondays) and offer a rare opportunity to experience the abbey not just as a monument, but as a living spiritual space.

More information about the retreat programme is available on the abbey’s website.

Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey Guided Tours

The Catholic Community of the Beatitudes also welcomes visitors who wish to explore the abbey through a guided tour. These tours provide insight into the architecture, history and spiritual heritage of the site, and are offered at set times throughout the year.

Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey Guided Tour Tickets

Additional group discounts — including school visits — are available on the abbey’s website.

What to take with you for Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey Hike

This is a comfortable but full‑day mountain route, so carrying the right gear makes the experience far more enjoyable. A small 30‑litre hiking rucksack is ideal, with around three litres of water — especially in warm weather. Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes with good grip are recommended for the forest paths, stone steps and occasional damp sections near the river.

Light, breathable layers work best, as the route alternates between shaded woodland, open viewpoints and cooler areas along the Cady valley. A small first‑aid kit, sunscreen, a hat and snacks are useful additions.

Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey Hike Summary of Prices

Train/Bus Fare Entry Ticket Additional Information Train/Bus Fare Entry Ticket Additional Information Adult € 0.00 € 8.00 students, unemployed, large familes, handicapped €6.00 Child € 0.00 € 6.00 FREE for under 12 years old Group/Family Ticket? Group discount for pre-book 20+ people groups. €7.00 per person.

Getting to Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey

Address: Vernet-les-Bains, Casteil, France, 66820

Leave Barcelona on the C‑58 motorway, passing Sabadell and Terrassa before joining the C‑16 toward Berga. Continue north through the Pre‑Pyrenees until you reach the Túnel del Cadí (toll: €14.56 for a car). Once you emerge on the northern side, the Àrea de Servei Túnel del Cadí – Porta Cerdanya service station is a convenient place to stretch your legs or grab a snack.

Follow signs toward Puigcerdà and cross the border into France, continuing along the N116 to Mont‑Louis. At the Mont‑Louis roundabout, stay on the N116 toward Villefranche‑de‑Conflent, then take the right‑hand turn onto the D116 to Vernet‑les‑Bains. Parking is easiest near the Monument à l’Entente Cordiale, which places you close to the start of the hiking route.

Wikiloc Trail for Saint-Martin-du-Canigou Abbey Hike

a0349 - Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey

a0349 - Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey

13Km circular hike from Vernet-les-Bains via forest waterfalls to the 11th Century Saint-Martin du Canigou Abbey and viewpoints in the Canigou mountains

Transport: Car Fare: By Car Distance: 13.04 Difficulty: Medium

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